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Kingstroker

2005 F250 Budget Build In Progress

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tweeter pods:

tweets_zpsa6c92838.jpg

for SEAS Neo textiles, stay tuned....

Edited by Kingstroker

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All the factory deadening was ground off and 1 vent was sealed with aluminum plate. Speaker wires were moved further over to the right and power in bottom of pic was rerouted through bottom of cab and along frame from the engine compartment so that rca's could be run in side channels. Karma 12 ga speaker wire was so large I had to run it overhead and down the A pillar.SAM_0684_zpsc1408199.jpg

1/2" Baltic birch was attached with silicone and ss screws and a box was made for access to the rear window motor and remaining vent.SAM_0686_zps54c06103.jpg A small amount of deadener was added to rear speaker locations and block of 3/4" foam behind the speaker.

Edited by Kingstroker

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The carpet was attached with heat/water resistant contact cement to wood surfaces. The flap over the rear window motor is attached with Velcro. Top 6" of carpet attached w/screws at top for future access of wires. Modded Linear Power 4753IQ, Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 xovers, Stinger HPM3 rca's and fused 2 way distribution block, PheonixGold ofc O ga power and Pioneer D series 6x8's(temporary) rear fills. These will be removed after I build a console sub enclosure and go active.SAM_0692_zpsbc3adff7.jpgSAM_0691_zps2df24ac6.jpg RCA's on left is for a 2202IQ in the future.

Edited by Kingstroker

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I smoothed the cap down with 120 grit on a belt grinder then drilled and counter sank by heating the screws. Finished up hand sanding w/220.SAM_0003_zps676d3a50.jpg I attached the swivel/tilt mount to the cap, cut and sanded the screws flush then locked the nut with a drop of CA glue. SAM_0006_zps2ba28495.jpg

Edited by Kingstroker

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ready for paintSAM_0007_zps012460f6.jpg done, color is actually tanSAM_0010_zps8114c1ee.jpg

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Pods are interesting. Is there any movement in the repurposed mounts to allow you to aim them? I could not tell if the joints were moveable.

That was my whole dilemma for my front stage. I seen lots of mounts that could not be moved. Actually found this idea on a UK car audio site. The "barrel" part swivels about a half turn in each direction and the portion next to the cup can tilt 45 degrees in 1 direction. I chose for them to tilt backward to fire toward the opposite C pillar direction. I'll post a pic in a few. The finished product is about $30 in parts and paint. Almost all track lights had the same size mechanism, the cost difference was in the type of bulb used. They were less than $10 each at Lowes. Humidity is through the roof with all the rain we're having so I'm going to let them dry for a few days before I attach them. I'm replacing the stereo in my wife's G35(crappy Bose) so that will keep me busy for a day or 2.

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More like 85 degrees in one direction. I used reel grease on a tooth pic to lube the tilt it was very stiff. Bottom threaded portion is common lamp threads, you can get couplings and threaded tubes to extend it if you need to. SAM_0014_zpsbb3b6c16.jpg I thought it was the fluorescent shop lights but under ambient light it still looks gray.

Edited by Kingstroker

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Pretty dang cool. A bit large for my install location on the sail panel, but still cool and should work great on an A-pillar. Gives you lots of options for aiming.

I've been telling Ray for 2 years he needs a "movable" mount for the tweeters. I would not have burned through so many sets of A-pillars I there was a movable mount. LOL

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Drilled a hole in the top of the A pillar and dug out some foamy sealant about 3/4 the way down to get the wire through.

SAM_0020_zpsf55cebb0.jpg

Soldered 12 ga for door woofers and 16 ga for the tweets.

SAM_0019_zps6257bbff.jpg

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Repainted the pods with Rustoleum camo tan and it matched pretty well. The undercoat of textured paint made it blend in well with the interior texture.

Painted washer-A pillar-washer-nut. Gave the washers a ( shape to fit the contour of the A pillar.

SAM_0021_zpsc19d51f7.jpg

For some reason the pic won't show how well the color/texture matches. Tried w/wo flash.

SAM_0023_zpsb08eea1a.jpg

SAM_0027_zpsef79ffc5.jpg

Edited by Kingstroker

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I like these little yellow screw protectors from Lowes. Fit the unused sub out RCA's perfectly.

SAM_0039_zpsd1bc84a5.jpg

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Total cost of pods including 2 different types of paint and all fasteners was about $23 each. Not included with the cost was the fussy side of some leftover industrial Velcro. I applied a 1/2" strip around the inside edge of the pod to snug the tweet in place.

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Thanks guys, it's my first build. From what I've seen on a lot of builds is the wires on the most part are hidden. The main reason I didn't is in the future I plan to go active and eliminate the xovers and there is not much room behind or under the seat. I have a 2202IQ on the way so the next part of the build will be a fabricated ISO console. My goal has been to keep the interior as stock looking as possible so the stock console will come out in case I totally fail on the console/enclosure. I'm thinking of an ISO style enclosure with outward facing 8's or 10's. I will probably have to pick a few brains to figure out the volume on such an enclosure so beware. I have downloaded the Torres box tuning calculator but not sure if it can do an ISO system.

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If this is your first build, I would say your start is outstanding. I wish my first build had started this good. :) Then again, that was 25 years ago, man I'm getting old!

Also, I'm sure I don't have to tell you this, but there are several guys on here that have a wealth of knowledge and I'm sure they can offer advice along the way.

Edited by ParrishTechGroup

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