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Cablguy184

Hyper Lights On "white Lightning"

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How do they last? See too many that die quick deaths.

They're well-made is how they last. His have aluminum heatsinks tied directly into the Luxeon led boards. Each bulb has just one of these leds in it: Philips LXM2-PD01-0050 running at 600mA. It's true that in most applications, aftermarket leds don't tend to last as long as filament bulbs.....most times I've found it's because the housing doesn't seal ALL of nature out, so it gets humidity, moisture, dirt etc into the housing and causes the LEDs to fail prematurely. OEM bulbs are less affected by mother nature, as they have very little exposed parts and contacts.

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I certainly don't want to hi-jack this thread, so my apologies in advance. Hyper, do you manufacture or have manufactured your own LEDs? I've been buying little stuff here and there for my car. Would certainly like to give business to local, "in the family" companies if possible.

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I certainly don't want to hi-jack this thread, so my apologies in advance. Hyper, do you manufacture or have manufactured your own LEDs? I've been buying little stuff here and there for my car. Would certainly like to give business to local, "in the family" companies if possible.

Our higher end stuff is assembled in-house, but no, we don't have the dies and equipment to actually manufacture the components themselves.

With that said, we DO manufacture custom lenses and other stuff like that. We're a design studio at heart.

Edited by HyPer

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Spent all weekend trimming fenderwells so I decided for me and the wife head out to Ameristar Casino Saturday night for a night out and some rest ...

Me and Mike decided to go up to the top of the parking garage for a few pics over the Mississippi River ...

image_url-43297-1379396595.jpg

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I'll get the shackles when I order my switches and valves, that way we can put the rear down far enough to tuck rim without bottoming out your shocks. Also gotta get your new urethane spring bump stops for above axle, so you've atleast got SOME squooshiness when lay'd out cruising.....better than riding rigid. :P

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I'll get the shackles when I order my switches and valves, that way we can put the rear down far enough to tuck rim without bottoming out your shocks. Also gotta get your new urethane spring bump stops for above axle, so you've atleast got SOME squooshiness when lay'd out cruising.....better than riding rigid. :P

No need for shackles ... getting that notch done should do me fine, cause I might be needing bags on the rear to help my truck pull trailers ...

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Yea, fiberglass work has been done ... just not finished yet.

You can kind of see the sealed part of the lenses on this pic ... I will update that as soon as I can get back to work on it ...

image_url-43297-1379395584.jpg

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I'll get the shackles when I order my switches and valves, that way we can put the rear down far enough to tuck rim without bottoming out your shocks. Also gotta get your new urethane spring bump stops for above axle, so you've atleast got SOME squooshiness when lay'd out cruising.....better than riding rigid. :P

No need for shackles ... getting that notch done should do me fine, cause I might be needing bags on the rear to help my truck pull trailers ...

Geez, nothing I said the other day soaked in did it.........doing shackles will not effect your ride height when your bags/shocks have air.....only when bags are fully deflated, then the shackles will bring you down lower. I have an extra pair of bags for your truck, they mount on the inner side of frame rails and go between frame and axle tube. I'll show you next time you're over this way.

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Also, if you swap to bags, you can actually change to regular shocks. or tether your shocks to the bags so they all 4 can support a heavier load at a lower pressure. Since your shocks will likely go past inflation point with shackles, then the bags will lift it alone to the point that your shocks start filling too.

or I can run double shock extenders on your rear shocks.

Edited by HyPer

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My cowl induction lights quit working ... I need to get back in there and see what is wrong ...

May split the circuits so half will run with the dash cluster and the other (brighter side) run with the hubs and grille ...

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My cowl induction lights quit working ... I need to get back in there and see what is wrong ...

May split the circuits so half will run with the dash cluster and the other (brighter side) run with the hubs and grille ...

Prolly that connection point being tied too tightly.....we really could've done a better job rigging up how they were mounted. Should be easier to climb into your engine bay now, especially the truck being 4" lower now.

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Looks like we got it fixed ... The cowl induction is lit up !!!

In fact ... a little too bright !!! May have to shut off one of the circuits to be able to drive with it ...

image_url-43297-1380698830.jpg

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