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Emery.H

Daily driven CRX

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I have always compressed the connector as well as soldered the connection. A mechanical connection may hold the wires in place inside the connector and not pull apart but air and humidity/moisture can oxidize the copper strands of the cable inside the connection weakening the electrical connection over time and even though it appears mechanically secure, it will no longer flow the current needed thruogh the cable or connection.Just an idea from someone that has dealt with installs since 1975, I learned a lot thru the school of hardknocks.

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I have always compressed the connector as well as soldered the connection. A mechanical connection may hold the wires in place inside the connector and not pull apart but air and humidity/moisture can oxidize the copper strands of the cable inside the connection weakening the electrical connection over time and even though it appears mechanically secure, it will no longer flow the current needed thruogh the cable or connection.Just an idea from someone that has dealt with installs since 1975, I learned a lot thru the school of hardknocks.

you to have problem with crimp on nothing beat solder and heat shring tubing. but the big problem i have is ground lugs that crimp on they can be out of aluminum just like old school crimp connectors can be so here goes.

here is the aluminum compound i was talking about. put this on the body panel and crimp connections some are old school aluminum connect crimp on that i have always had the problem with even if using copper wire any ways here is a link to noalox by ideal industries.

http://bundlepower.com/ideal-noaloxr-anti-oxidant-compound-4-oz-bottle-95890.html?cvsfa=2942&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=444c5f33302d303236

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left tweeter went out today. Took the right one out and swapped them to see if it was the wiring; it's not. But after taking the right tweet out the alt. whine diminished a bit :ughdunno:

should i replace it, or get a new set?

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I have always compressed the connector as well as soldered the connection. A mechanical connection may hold the wires in place inside the connector and not pull apart but air and humidity/moisture can oxidize the copper strands of the cable inside the connection weakening the electrical connection over time and even though it appears mechanically secure, it will no longer flow the current needed thruogh the cable or connection.Just an idea from someone that has dealt with installs since 1975, I learned a lot thru the school of hardknocks.

I'm using Knu wires. They are tinned so i shouldn't have to worry about oxidation, right? And i plan to replace any copper connectors i have with Knu's ring terminals, which are coated as well. Should be fine without solder? Or should i still look into it?

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Update:

Been thinking a lot about my front stage. I blew a tweeter, as stated before, and instead of getting replacement set i think i'm going to try and sell my mids and get a component set. I dont like the Xover setting on the 100.4, they're too vague for me, i just dont have enough experience with it, and don't know how to go about doing it correctly. I jumped into a pond i thought was a puddle. But further down the road i want to have 2 sets of comps. per door, because i have the power ;) find some comps that take 100 watts/side and i should be set. I'm looking at crescendo's 6.5 set, or JBL that i found the other day. Just have to figure out how i want to mount this stuff.

Ordered a couple things in the last week. First package should be here tomorrow. New tools are fun ;) The next one wont be here for a while, but as far as i know it's pretty powerful :D May have one more order soon.. Depends on how much money i want to spend. I think i should wait a little bit. Lent out 200 last week, when i get that and my next paycheck ill be back where i started before i had to replace my alt. and all the stuff i've recently bought. I like my bank account to be above a certain point before i make large purchases. Ill update when i get some stuff done! :drink40:

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Cant decide if i want to get 2 low powered (100 watts per side), 100 dollar sets. OR one nice, high powered (up to 380 watts per side) 200 dollar set... i was thinking 2 6.5s in each door would help a lot on cone area for some nice midbass. :morepower1: And there should be a pretty nice "wow factor" with having 2 sets in each door.

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Cant decide if i want to get 2 low powered (100 watts per side), 100 dollar sets. OR one nice, high powered (up to 380 watts per side) 200 dollar set... i was thinking 2 6.5s in each door would help a lot on cone area for some nice midbass. :morepower1: And there should be a pretty nice "wow factor" with having 2 sets in each door.

if persistent on 6.5's try polk sr on e bay i think "speed" picked some nice ones up cheap see what he says about them too.

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Here are some other good speakers just to let you know these are about 150 – 100 watts rms per set. And 75-50 watts rms per speaker most speakers are not 150 rms each speaker. Keep that in mind. I have seen a lot of people say that wrong to a person buying speaker and they blow them. like you did so keep what I said in mind. I just hook mine to the source unit and don’t worry about it I got the 75 rms one of these cadance and they barely handle the bass of a source unit amp and will not handle a external amp such as sun down. Even polks will not handle that much power .

http://cgi.ebay.com/CADENCE-ZRS-65KS-6-5-300w-SLIM-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-PAIR-/390279983886?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item5ade7ff30e

http://cgi.ebay.com/CVL3-WK-CADENCE-6-5-3-WAY-CVL-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-NEW-/130423164345?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item1e5dd38db9

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I said "per set" not per speaker :P

Thanks for the links. I'm still just window shopping ATM. Want to sell stuff before i buy anything new..* check out my F/S/ thread*

Look what i can do now. Just need more terminals like this. The dozen i have from KNU dont fit the crimper..

dscf2787x.jpg

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I like these

http://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO608C-6-5-Inch-Component-System/dp/B0024JARH6/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1299128409&sr=1-2

Darn it bum, i need to make money before i spend it! lol stop tempting me!

Where are jbl speakers made?

btw that is a nice crip you should heat shrink it so the wire does not show threw that nice work i use a heat gun to shrink up the heat shrink

china is were there made

something like this is better yet then the jbl's you listed mo power mo mid bass

http://cgi.ebay.com/JBL-C608GTi-MkII-6-5-GTi-CAR-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-new-/200580508843?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item2eb387acab

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i used some electrical tape, should be the same. I don't know why, but I don't care much for shrink wrap. :shrug:

Do they make their amp in the US? where have i seen that they're US built? if so why aren't their speakers made here?

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i used some electrical tape, should be the same. I don't know why, but I don't care much for shrink wrap. :shrug:

Do they make their amp in the US? where have i seen that they're US built? if so why aren't their speakers made here?

rockford fosgate is and has a lot of usa made stuff all my p1022's were made in china they had made in china sticker on all of them .

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Next thing i want to get are some NGK spark plug wires to go with my new plugs i haven't put on yet. These old ones are ugly... and old.

Plugs and wires are one of the first things I did to my little car.

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Next thing i want to get are some NGK spark plug wires to go with my new plugs i haven't put on yet. These old ones are ugly... and old.

Plugs and wires are one of the first things I did to my little car.

What brand did you end up going with?

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Next thing i want to get are some NGK spark plug wires to go with my new plugs i haven't put on yet. These old ones are ugly... and old.

Plugs and wires are one of the first things I did to my little car.

What brand did you end up going with?

NGK, planned on Bosch, but did my research for my specific car and NGK had the best feedback and following.

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Next thing i want to get are some NGK spark plug wires to go with my new plugs i haven't put on yet. These old ones are ugly... and old.

Plugs and wires are one of the first things I did to my little car.

What brand did you end up going with?

NGK, planned on Bosch, but did my research for my specific car and NGK had the best feedback and following.

Very nice. Go for the blue or black wires? i cant decide. Wish they had gray...

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Next thing i want to get are some NGK spark plug wires to go with my new plugs i haven't put on yet. These old ones are ugly... and old.

Plugs and wires are one of the first things I did to my little car.

What brand did you end up going with?

NGK, planned on Bosch, but did my research for my specific car and NGK had the best feedback and following.

Very nice. Go for the blue or black wires? i cant decide. Wish they had gray...

I think only blue was available.

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