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Subwoofery

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  1. Subwoofery

    The NEW Linear Power amps

    Just wondering which Mosconi amp did you compare the LP to? Thanks, Kelvin There will be no pissing contest here ... Please save that stuff for your DIYMA activities ... If you really want to know what goes on "behind the scenes" in the shops, Please make yourself availiable to be there in person or call Ray personally ... Ray and the guys have no problems explaining themselves while they are working on products, and will give you all the demos your ears can stand ... So please help me keep these threads professional ... Ok, I really don't know what got you guyz but I'm genuinely interested. I love High-End amplifiers and am planning my next install. Already have 1 x Sinfoni Prestigio for my horns and am looking for an amp for the lower mid/upper midbass range. Have a Milbert and a Genesis DMX in another car too - really don't know why I need to justify myself. I wish I could come to any shop but living in Tahiti is kind of difficult. You can check my IP address. I live in Tahiti, 98701 French Polynesia... I only want the best so I don't know why people get mad when we ask questions. True I come from DIYMA - that doesn't mean I'm only looking for the cheapest thing available. Kelvin
  2. Subwoofery

    The NEW Linear Power amps

    Just wondering which Mosconi amp did you compare the LP to? Thanks, Kelvin
  3. Subwoofery

    Help Selecting Components

    DIY: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/auto-kits/scanspeak-discovery-820013-6-autosound-system-pair/ If you can get the Rockford Fosgate T3 for less than $500, I'd say go for it. Had a really short listen to those and they sound really clear and dynamic. The guy was using more than 200 watts too which is a plus. Kelvin
  4. Subwoofery

    Cablguy184's 1997 Chevy Silverado

    ^ I actually understand and know this Kelvin
  5. Subwoofery

    Cablguy184's 1997 Chevy Silverado

    No problem... I'm still learning and don't even compare to some of the gurus out there Then I hope Randal can master it Regarding your rearfill problem, from what I've gathered, it really helps to have the rear fill @ ear level and playing it 6dB to 8dB lower than your frontstage with firing angle of 60° or more. If you have T/A then it's even better - adding 20m/s helps to create an "echo" kind of sound which expands the soundstage - not only wider but deeper too... Kelvin
  6. Subwoofery

    Cablguy184's 1997 Chevy Silverado

    Fair enough... I stand corrected then Kelvin
  7. Subwoofery

    Cablguy184's 1997 Chevy Silverado

    I actually did not post the pic to show the perfect system... only to show how we localize sound in the lower register I've been trying to back my claim up regarding using a center channel without some form of processing. I know I can be wrong but I just don't want you cut your dash up if it doesn't work like you planned... Kelvin
  8. Subwoofery

    Cablguy184's 1997 Chevy Silverado

    Some of the guys have small budgets to work with and can't afford the headunit or processors, others don't want the processed sound. Most of your "hard" left and right information is in the upper frequency bands, as long as you don't turn the volume up too loud and dont use a tweeter in the center it will not decrease the width much if any. Most of your center channel information are vocals, so the frequency range you need to be able to produce is say 80-3000 hz, which is not going to detract much from the information that creates the feeling of width. Most of the guys that are using a center channel are using a 5.25 or 6.5 for the center which tend to roll out in the 4500-5000k range leaving the higher freqs for the left and right channels to still give you that ambience and width. Another trick to make it wider is to use a full range speaker in a rear fill location in the side panels or rear doors at a very low level this gives the feeling of width without pulling the sound stage into your face. I know it works, we have at least one vehicle that uses no processing at all and a center channel that is second in his class in average points for the season in MECA contests. No it is not the "perfect" way of doing it but it gets you pretty dang close, and is acceptable in most cases. To answer Chris though, the upper end Kenwood units will process center channel information without being in surround mode or using DTA either, there is an option just to turn the center channel output on. I've read quite a few things over the years so if I'm wrong please correct me. Low frequencies (below about 120Hz) are difficult to localize. Midbass frequencies (up to about 500Hz) are localized via time and phase differences. Midrange frenquencies (up to about 2kHz) are localized via time and level differences. Whereas High frequencies (2kHz and above) are localized via level differences. Ok, now from the above picture, you can see the "optimal source distribution" for a three way set up with a specific set of crossover points Here's what I got from another forum From this, I feel that using a driver from 80Hz to 3kHz will still narrow the soundstage. It's actually the high frequencies that won't affect width much if placed in front or in the center of the car: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/72891-anyone-tried-using-one-tweeter.html I did experiment with both tweeters in the center and width hasn't been affected for "95%" of the songs... Kelvin
  9. Subwoofery

    Cablguy184's 1997 Chevy Silverado

    You could try it with a towel behind your driver just to see how loud you can play your center channel without narrowing your stage too much I guess... Kelvin
  10. Subwoofery

    Cablguy184's 1997 Chevy Silverado

    I think what Randall means is that he will have a amp bridged to the center channel with the speaker getting a L+R signal (mono). It is the nearest he can get without buying a headunit with a dedicated center channel output, that will truely put only what needs to be in the center, in the center. Yes, I understood perfectly... but by just bridging an amp to power his center channel, he's also going to send hard left and hard right information down his center channel. What I mean is that he needs some form of processing (like the MS-8 for eg.) that is going to send MONO informations MINUS hard left and hard right informations. Bridging his amp is not a good way to power a center channel and the result will be a narrower soundstage... Hard left informations is going to come from outside the pillars and from your center channel. Kelvin
  11. Subwoofery

    Cablguy184's 1997 Chevy Silverado

    What I mean by proper processing is that you need to send MONO informations only to your center channel or you'll have a narrow soundstage since you'll also be getting some hard left and hard right information from your center channel. Kelvin
  12. Subwoofery

    Cablguy184's 1997 Chevy Silverado

    What kind of processing you'll be using for your center to only play L+R L-L, R-R information? Kelvin
  13. Subwoofery

    Linear Power / Blues Car Audio

    Just so you guyz know, there's a used set of (old) BL65 drivers and another listing from the same seller for the tweets+passives. Enjoy, Kelvin
  14. Subwoofery

    Cablguy184's 1997 Chevy Silverado

    Interesting... Good job then So no aiming required? Kelvin
  15. Subwoofery

    Cablguy184's 1997 Chevy Silverado

    Why doors instead of kick panels? And which improvements did you get? Kelvin
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