MJS_IraggiAlts

What is the highest amperage alternator you guys have ever seen before?. ..

What is the highest amperage alternator you guys have ever seen before?. ..Heard some crazy answers before so wanted to post in here to see what you guys have seen? Thanks Melissa

Kinda of a long read, not as long as it seems, but I put together a little story about how car car audio and other audio things came to be. It is an interesting read when you have time So, one night, long ago, in 1929, two men named William Lear & Elmer Wavering took their “lady friends” to a lookout point in Illinois, “to watch the sunset”. One of their gals said it would be more romantic if they could listen to the radio in the car (See women have great tech ideas) Lear & Wavering were stoked by this, & both of these guys had messed around with radios (Lear was as a radio operator in the U.S. Navy during World War I) & it didn’t take long before they were taking the home radio, disassembling it & trying to get it to work in a car. Of course, as they found, it was not that easy, vehicles have ignition switches, generators, spark plugs, & a whole slew of other electrical stuff that causes noisy static interference, (like a backseat driver) making it almost impossible, at that time, to listen to the radio if the car was actually running. So, they started one piece at a time, & the men, Lear & Wavering, Identified and eliminated each source of electrical interference. Then they got it to work! They took it to a radio convention in Chicago, which is where they met Paul Galvin, owner of Galvin Manufacturing Corporation Now, Mr. Galvin made a product called a “battery eliminator”, a device that allowed battery-powered radios to run on household AC current (genius!) However, the more homes that were wired for electricity, the more radio manufacturers Made AC-powered radios. Well, this Galvin guy, he needed a new product & when he met the two fellers Lear & Wavering at the convention, he found it. He believed that mass-produced, affordable car radios had the potential to become a huge business Not long after, our two guys, Lear & Wavering, set up shop at Mr. Galvin’s place, & guess what? When they perfected their first radio, they installed it in a Studebaker! Mr. Galvin decided to hit up the local banker & apply for a loan, he was thinking to sweeten the deal, he would have his men install a radio in the banker’s Packard, didn’t work It was like 30 min after Galvin’s men had installed the radio into the Packard, that is caught on fire, needless to say, no loan, but our Mr. Galvin man did not give up! He said to heck with the banker and hopped in his Studebaker, drove almost 800 miles to Atlantic City and showed off his radio at the 1930 Radio Manufacturers Association convention Now, since he did not get the loan, he was broke as a joke, so, he parked his car outside of the convention & blared the radio so that everyone could hear it…THAT idea DID work, and he ended up getting enough orders to start production of the radio WHAT’S IN A NAME The first model he called the 5T71, but Mr. Galvin knew he needed to come up with something a little catchier. In those days many companies in the phonograph and radio businesses used the suffix “ola” for their names – Radiola, Columbiola, and Victrola were three of the biggest. So, Mr. Galvin decided to do the same thing, and since his radio was intended for use in a motor vehicle, he decided to call it the Motorola. (Mind blown!) However, even with the awesome new name change, his radio still had problems: In the 1930’s when Mr. Galvin put the radio on sale the cost, uninstalled, was around $110. In the 1930’s you could buy a whole new freakin car for $650, not to mention during that time the country was sliding into the Great Depression. Calculating that in today’s time that would make a radio for a car about $3000 today! It also took two people to install a car radio back then, they had to take the dashboard apart so one single speaker & the receiver could be installed, & the dang ceiling had to be cut open to install an antenna! The first radios ran on their own batteries, not on the car battery, so on top of everything, holes had to be cut into the floorboard to the batteries. The installation manual alone had 8 diagrams like full diagrams, & 28 pages of written instructions!! This wouldn’t have been an easy sale even if it wasn’t the Great Depression. Mr. Galvin lost money in 1930 & struggled for a couple of years after that, but things picked up in 1933 when Ford began offering Motorola radios pre-installed at the factory and to make it better, in 1934 the guys got another boost when Mr. Galvin struck a deal with B.F. Goodrich, the tire company, to sell & install them in its chain of tire stores. This dropped the price from $110 to $55 & the Motorola car radio was off & banging! The name of the company would be officially changed from Galvin Manufacturing to “Motorola” in 1947 While business was good, Mr. Galvin kept striving to develop new uses for car radios & in 1936, the same year that it introduced push-button tuning, it also introduced the Motorola Police Cruiser, a standard car radio that was factory preset to a single frequency to pick up police broadcasts. Not one to stop, Mr. Galvin then developed the first handheld two-way radio in 1940, called “The Handy-Talkie”, specifically for the U. S. Army. In 1947 they came out with the first television for under $200. In 1956 the company introduced the world’s first pager in 1969 came the radio & television equipment that was used to televise Neil Armstrong’s first steps on the Moon! (One giant leap is an understatement!) In 1973 it invented the world’s first handheld cellular phone WHATEVER HAPPENED TO THE 2 FELLERS WHO INSTALLED THE FIRST RADIO IN MR. GALVIN’S CAR? Elmer Wavering & William Lear took two very different paths, Wavering, he stayed with Motorola. Wavering did something we thank him for everyday in the 950’s, he developed the first automotive alternator, replacing inefficient & unreliable generators. This then led to power windows, locks, power seats & air-conditioning! Lear also continued inventing; he holds more than 150 patents. Remember those things your parents told you about, eight-track tape players? Welp, Lear invented that! But what he’s really famous for are his contributions to the field of aviation. He invented radio direction finders for planes, aided in the invention of the autopilot, designed the first fully automatic aircraft landing system, and in 1963 introduced his most famous invention of all, the Lear Jet, the world’s first mass (Not bad for a guy who dropped out of school after the eighth grade)

Thanks for posting! This is great!

I have never dealt with them, but it was an interesting read :)

Sorry so long. Thought this would be a good share. Email received from XS Power: Thanks for contacting us regarding the proper way to charge sealed lead acid (AGM) type batteries like the ones we produce. Unlike conventional lead acid batteries, AGM batteries are completely sealed, meaning that all of the gas and electrolyte is safely stored inside the battery. In order to keep AGM batteries in good health, and to maximize their performance and life expectancy, it is important to properly charge and maintain them. Leaving a battery (conventional or sealed) in a low state of charge over a long period of time is bad for the battery because it allows the electrolyte the opportunity to crystalize, or dry out directly on the surface of the lead plates of the battery. Once this material (lead sulfate) is produced, the battery loses its capacity and performance, and the charge acceptance of the battery is greatly reduced. More importantly is making sure that when the battery is being recharged, either in a vehicle, or with a battery charger, that the charging voltage is not too high, relative to the ambient temperature around the battery. On a daily basis, when customers ask us what voltage to charge their battery, our standard response is 14.4V, but as you can see in the illustration below, the optimal charging voltage really depends on how and where the battery is being used. For installations where the temp exceeds the limits of our chart, we recommend XS Power PN 500, which is our heat reflecting wrap that helps reflect some of the heat in high temp applications. For your alternator customers who chose to disregard our charging voltage recommendations, it is likely they will start to experience problems within the first year of ownership of their AGM battery, and none of the AGM battery companies offer warranty against improper charging, so it would be an expensive lesson to learn if they chose to charge outside of the factory recommendations. If you have any questions, or would like any further info, please do not hesitate to let us know! Technical Service Team XS POWER 2847 John Deere Dr. Suite 102 Knoxville, TN 37917 tel: 865.688.5953 fax: 865.281.9844 (Here is our info on how to properly hook up an XS Power https://www.iraggialternator.com/xs-power-vcm-hook-up)

6 PHASE HAIRPIN We get a lot of requests asking specifically for a "6 phase hairpin" when they really have no idea why, they have just been told its "Better". I guess some companies promote them like they are the end-all of alternators. In my opinion, it’s really because they don't have the capacity to design a stator of their own. I think they buy whatever "shelf parts" WAI has or their distributor of choice and "Hairpin" just sounds cool, and it’s got to be better right, .... Is a hairpin a better design than a loop wound stator”? Yes, absolutely. It is a better design. But... They are too small to be a better overall design compared to a properly designed large case GM stator. IF they were the size of an AD244 then yes, they would be a "Better" alternator Some cars just don’t have a housing option for a large case GM, and some don’t have a housing option for a hairpin. 4.2 Trailblazer is one. There is no such housing for a 4.2L in a hairpin style. On cars that have both options, I ALWAYS do a Large Case GM style (Suburban for example) Hairpins do NOT have more output at idle. That is probably the biggest myth of all about them. The ONLY hairpin that has more output at low rpm is a large case 270 Amp. They are just too small to do 320+ amps AND do good at a low rpm idle (Cars that idle at 900+ rpm are outliers, and any alt will idle good on them) Look how much LESS copper there is in a hairpin (See pic of the leads side by side) They have 6 leads of a single conductor. Our large case GM has 3 leads of 8 wires each. 6 wires VS 24 wires in our Large Case GM, the cross-sectional area of wire is not even close. Any stator out there that has 8 leads per phase is an Iraggi Alternator design that I came up with back in the late 1990's. It’s called a "Dual POW wind" (Dual Progressive Offset Wind.) It’s actually "Quad Wound" but the machine winds 2 coils at once, It maximizes slot fill and cross sectional area of wire per phase A hairpin stator is literally a single piece of wire cut thousands of times and welded back together on the bottom side of the stator There is only 1 attribute that a hairpin stator has over a loop wound stator, and that’s the space between slots. The hairpin has approximately .050 of space between slots and the slot wound has approximately .120 of space. The hairpin gap can be much smaller because the wire is not passed through the gap during assembly, it passed through from the top of the lamination. The wire on a loop wound must fit through the gap to go into the slot. The hairpin is a much better use of space. It all comes down to the cross-sectional area of the stator I.D. (Look at the inside of the two stators to see the difference) I’ll be more than happy to clarify ANY info you guys have questions about. I just want you all to have what’s best for your system These are my opinions, so don’t slam me for posting this as a fact 🙂

PRV AUDIO Vocal Speakers.... This may not make sense initially, but a high-quality speaker will have less bandwidth than a lower quality speaker... (for the most part) Just like a 3- or 4-way system is always better than a 1- or 2-way system. The narrower the bandwidth the speaker must play the cleaner it will sound. This will also keep you from asking the speaker to play up to its upper and lower frequency limits which are where it starts to sound "forced" to play those frequencies Pro Audio speakers are nothing new to car audio, but I see consumers not really knowing how to properly use them and having some issues which is understandable. These are totally different than your standard coaxial speaker If you look at the graph on the 6mr500ndy, which sounds amazing, you'll see that it can play from 90hz to 12,000hz... but if you narrow it down to what is plays "best" and more "naturally" it’s closer to 200hz to 10,000hz. Yes, it can play down to 50hz but not efficiently and not as well as 200 and up. Very low volume that would be fine but in what we do with the speaker you will want to cross it over closer to 200-300hz I get a lot of PMs asking if this speaker will pick up where my subs leave off? … around 60-80hz. I say no but the specs say "yes”. 99-13k so that may be a little confusing if you don’t look at the graph and understand what information it has in it So, for someone interested in using this speaker as a voice speaker, which I HIGHLY recommend, you will also need a "midbass" speaker to go with it such as a 10mb800 or 10mb500 or 8mb450. This leads me to another piece of information. PRV model numbers have an "MR”, “MB", "SW" or "W" in between the size of the driver and wattage of the individual speaker. MR=midrange MB=midbass W=woofer SW=subwoofer This is a general guideline for what the speaker is geared towards. That doesn’t mean an 8mb450 can’t be used for midrange or and 8mr400 can’t be used for midbass. That is where the graph and interpretation of the graph comes into play There is a lot more that goes into designing your front stage or your "voice" speakers that one of these days I’ll try and have a more in depth write up. The possibilities are endless... I could not post the PDF because it was too big, so here is the link to the Technical info on PRV Audio Site: https://prvaudio.com/products/6mr500-ndy/

What is the biggest alternator or car audio myth you have ever heard? Cant wait to read the responses on this!

𝐂𝐎𝐌𝐏𝐀𝐑𝐈𝐒𝐎𝐍 𝐎𝐅 𝐀𝐁𝐔𝐒𝐄 I was thinking about something the other day.... would love to hear some feedback A comparison of abuse each individual component takes in your typical car audio system, (10,000 watts of power for example) 𝐒𝐔𝐁𝐖𝐎𝐎𝐅𝐄𝐑𝐒- Typically, a pair of 2500–3000-watt subs on a 10k or 10k worth of power, so real close to double its rated capacity (People blow subs daily, and recon all the time, and never say a word about the product, or quality of product. They just accept its part of the game and move on) $500 sub, $150 recon kit, EVERY time it blows. That gets expensive quick, but still, nobody cares, they seem happy and proud they launched coils all the way onto the dashboard 𝐀𝐌𝐏𝐋𝐈𝐅𝐈𝐄𝐑𝐒- Usually ran at 1/2Ω, so DOUBLE its rated load also Sometimes 18 volts AND down to 1/4Ω, so at least 4-5 times its rated capacity easy 𝐁𝐀𝐓𝐓𝐄𝐑𝐈𝐄𝐒- I have yet to see a system without enough batter power. People usually go overboard by 125-150% minimum 𝐀𝐋𝐓𝐄𝐑𝐍𝐀𝐓𝐎𝐑𝐒- 320 amps is probably the most common amperage. 10K pulls between 900 and 1200 amps depending on its configuration. That's 3-4 times the alts rated capacity, ... unless you have duals on your 10k of power, then it’s still double the alts capacity Alternator goes out, drops two tenths of a volt under load, gets a little hot, takes out a rectifier or regulator and everyone loses their mind. They make a post at the next red-light, post pictures, get all upset, send their alt to someone else to repair thinking they will do a better job and talk about it for the next 18 months Most abuse repairs are $75, half the price of a recon that some so happily buy once a week 𝐒𝐎, 𝐓𝐎 𝐑𝐄𝐂𝐀𝐏... Subs ran at double their rated power, but it seems nobody cares when they blow, they buy "so and so" soft parts. Amps ran at double their rated specifications; nobody cares when they blow up. They care more than subs, but still, they call an Amp-medic or whomever and get it fixed with very minimal complaining Batteries ran at below ratings usually so very rare for a battery to go bad, unless you are running voltage too high, which nobody does right? lol Alternators expected to power 3-4 times their capacity & maintain a bank of batteries at the same time and when they end up burning up an alt, they go crazy ORDER OF LEVEL OF TYPICAL ABUSE... IN MY OBSERVATIONS ANYWAY. 1- Alternator. (Most heavily abused) 2- Amplifiers 3- Subwoofers 4- Batteries I don’t get it..why is it someone would be more upset that the most abused component fails?

Hi All! My name is Melissa with Iraggi Alternator & I just wanted to introduce myself. I started working with Iraggi in August 2015. I'm the Director of Operations, CFO & CTO. I also handle the website building/maintenance, Facebook business page, customer emails/messages/complaints, accounting, quotes & so much more. Iraggi Alternator has been completely restructured! I would love an opportunity to show anyone who may have heard or had a bad experience at one time with Iraggi, to check us out on our new Facebook Business Page and Google Business Page. I want nothing more than to continue to rebuild the Iraggi name & provide the BEST customer service and products we possibly can. I have also restructured the pricing & benefits that are included with all alternators too! I would love the opportunity to help anyone I can, even if they don't have an Iraggi Alt. I regularly post tips, advice and information related to car audio, alternators and other info on the FB business and website, so please check it out! Thanks everyone for taking the time to read this post! https://www.facebook.com/iraggialternators https://g.page/r/CXLoms3PAQ0vEAg/review https://www.iraggialternator.com https://www.facebook.com/Melissa51515