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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/21/2013 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    ssaudio

    CA-F.com Never Ending Story

    basically a thread to post a never ending chat/conversation in. Enjoy
  2. 1 point
    I found a DIYMA thread where Ray was mentioning that the 2250 could run this way an they were making insane power. However this was before production models where ready. Can this be done with adequate cooling?
  3. 1 point
    The whole purpose for the two sets of power supply taps in the amps were to raise voltage for high impedance loads or lower voltage for lower impedance loads to allow for the higher current draw. The taps were added for versatility and convenience for the customer that had a previous speaker system that he does not want to replace with new speakers to get the best impedance load. Even though our amps will run 2 ohm stereo or 4 ohm bridged, it is still more advantageous to use a 4 ohm stereo or 8 ohm bridged load due to the higher efficiency of the high voltage taps and the better SQ specs of a higher impedance load. The mathematics basically equal the same power since if voltage is raised and current is reduced by running a higher impedance load in the higher voltage transformer windings, or voltage is reduced and current increased across a lower impedance load in the lower voltage taps. Running a lower impedance load in the high voltage taps can damage the amp or throw it into protection or both on any of our old amps. On the new amps they will reach their preset current limits we have programmed and then shut off. The amp doesn't really care what the impedance load is, it looks at the current asked from it and will not allow it to exceed that level.
  4. 1 point
    We have never recommended loads lower than we specified for any model amp. The purpose of any mod we have ever done has nothing to do with running lower impedance loads. The protection circuit in the new amps will not allow it to run those improper loads at any major power level. We have the output stage and the power supply protected from over current conditions by two separate circuits that work independantly of each other. Once the amp has reach our predetermined current limits it will shut down. We did not build these amps with the current capability and high power output they have, in order for someone to run a lower impedance load, we did it to make them as dead solid on power output as we could at the recommended impedance loads and to have extreme reserve for the best dynamics and headroom possible, as well as, more reliability and longevity than anything we have ever made before. High voltage amps make as much or more power than high current design and do so more efficiently, with higher sound quality and reliability. Every time the impedance load is cut in half damping factor and headroom is also halved, current draw and distortion is doubled, transistor life is reduced and efficiency is lost and more power is lost as heat. Any electronic or electrical engineer outside car audio will tell you designing for high voltage in ANY electrical circuit is better than a high current situation. We are the only electrical industry that pushes high current design and the reason for it was to cheat in the stereo contests starting in the mid 1980's. there is no electrical advantage. High voltage is used for high power applications all over other electrical industries, it produces high power with smaller cabling, and greater efficiency. This is why your large appliances in your home run on 220 volts instead of 110. This is why car manufacturers have discussed in recent years going to 24 or 48 volt electrical systems in cars. They can decrease cable size saving money on copper wire, reduce weight, improve system efficiency and produce equal or more power than a 12 volt systems can. A 48 volt system can use a cable roughly 1/4 the gauge as 12 volt and make the same power. This idea was used in the 1950's when manufacturers changed from 6 volt to 12 volt electrical systems in automobiles. This same principle works with the internal voltage in a car amplifier. Ohms law states that current multipled by voltage equals power. You can raise current to increase power or raise voltage to do the same. You cannot raise both at high levels due to the limitations of the specs of the transistor. As an engineer you have to choose which path you want to take on the amplifier'sdesign and follow that design. Once you have mixed voltage and current to levels past the SOA (safe operating area) of the device or devices you have now made a time bomb. In a transistor,voltage and current are inversely proportionate, as voltage goes up current must come down to keep the transistor within its SOA and vise versa if current goes up. So what reason is there to increase current by running a lower impedance load to make power and add so many negative effects by doing it; when you can raise voltage and have the same power increases while retaining better sonic capability, efficiency and reliability. The principle of high voltage design is what has made all of our amps last so long and still be in high demand and still bringing premium prices all these many years later. The limits to either design is either you can go no lower in impedance to keep gaining power and your losses keep multiplying with high current, or the limit to high voltage design is the voltage limits of a device. You can make an amp make all the power you want into 4, 8 or even 16 ohms. You just have to build the amp to provide the voltage needed to make the mathematics work.
  5. 0 points
  6. 0 points
    6APPEAL

    Details Of Amp Mods.

    A few people have attempted to duplicate with disastrous results. Different models have different mods, so no two models are exactly the same and the number of changes varies by model also. Trust me, some take WAY more work and parts and others surprisely few. Pretty much every older amp I've owned has been modded, so I've seen a bunch done. Tons of time, work, research and knowledge to figue it out and make it work without causing premuture death. I agree that in some amps the mods are worth more, meaning the combination of sq and power gained is phenomenal. You can hardly believe it is the same amp. I heard the question asked, 'Why are there no mods for the new amps?' Because unlike the old amps, the new Linear Power amps are built without compromise; the best possible parts along with the best possible design that Ray, Jerry and Steve can get and do, nothing less will do. Follow that up with testing, testing, testing and more testing. I am more than happy to be one of the guinea pigs of the testing process. I couldn't tell you the number of hours I've spent swapping amps or speakers in my various systems throughout the years. A 'come by the shop and listen' or 'come outside and listen, I'm parked in you driveway' call from Ray is normal (and expected by my wife).
  7. 0 points
    ** 2-ohm power rating is tested with the power supply taps in the 2-ohm setting, leaving the taps in the 4 ohm setting will generate considerable additional power however it is not suggested or recommended. So if I wanted to get the most power out of my modded 2202IQ and I run a 2ohm load in the 4ohm mode it will void warrantee and/or damage the amp?
  8. 0 points
    Emery.H

    CA-F.com Never Ending Story

    Sounds like a fun weekend!
  9. -1 points
    Aaron Clinton

    SoundSplinter Orphan 8 sale

    Check them out here: SoundSplinter Orphan 8 sale. This is a one time sale as these are not going to be made again anytime in the near future.
  10. -1 points
    Cablguy184

    1973 Cadillac

    My dad is selling his 73 Caddy. Awesome condition. Serious inquires send me a pm for details and info ... thanks, Randal ...
  11. -1 points
    NickDurkin

    Infinite Baffle Driver

    I'm looking for an Infinite Baffle Subwoofer. I did a lot of research and found that a Qts of about 0.6-0.7 is good for an infinite bafle setup. I am looking for SQ not SPL. I do want SPL but not at the cost of SQ or frequency response. I want a low frequency response (less than 25Hz). Here is what I've found so far: JL Audio 12W0v2 ($80) min freq:22Hz Qts:0.67 Boston Acoustics G312-4 ($145) min freq:20Hz Qts:0.73 G312-44 ($150) min freq:20Hz Qts:0.62 Which one is going to be better? Or... is there an even better driver than these? Thanks for your help.
  12. -1 points
    Big Boi

    Pioneer Mvh-P8200Bt

    1. Product: Pioneer MVH-P8200BT 2. Specs: General features: digital media receiver (no built-in CD player) built-in amplifier (14 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels) built-in Bluetooth with HFP, HSP, and OPP support plays MP3, WMA, and AAC music files from external sources 3" color TFT display detachable face remote control Audio features: 8-band graphic equalizer Auto EQ equalizes sound output for your vehicle (optional microphone required) high- and low-pass filters Expandability: iPod direct connection to USB input (optional cable required for iPod video output) compatible with Pioneer HD Radio tuner, satellite radio inputs: front USB input, SD card slot, front auxiliary input outputs: 6-channel preamp outputs (4-volt front, rear, subwoofer) 3. Description/Condition: 10/10 functionality 8/10 Cosmetics (very light signs of wear, face not scratched.) 4. Price: : 155 Insure/shipped PayPal Prefered NO TRADES PLEASE. 5. Pictures:
  13. -1 points
    This will be the last group buy from SPL-Lab before we re-design our website and publicize our rep and retailer base more effectively. We have some new revisions of our products to go over, cheaper group buy prices, combo deals and SMART Monitor all tied in on this one! Group buy starts NOW and ends Feb 17th, 11:59pm EST We will not be offering custom calibrations with this group buy because of some new revisions to our products You will see the specs listed below. To be a part of the group buy, please PM me your email address and we will send you an invoice to be paid for $165 via Paypal or using Paypal processing. You can either pay that amount or pay in full by letting us know to invoice for full amount. Remainder amount needs to be paid within 60 days from now. All Group buy orders are expected to ship right around the time the group buy is over and quite possibly sooner! NOTE- when paying, please let us know what you are purchasing. Below is what we offer- For information on our meters, please visit our website at- SPL LAB USA USB Meter- 110-183dB 10hz-120hz NEW for 2013 Price - $319 Group buy LCD Meter- 120-180dB 20hz-120hz Price - $379 Group Buy USB Pro Meter- 110-183dB 10hz-120hz NEW for 2013 Price - $499 Group Buy Wireless Bluetooth Meter- 120-180dB 20hz-120hz Price - $379 Group Buy USB Noise Meter-(RTA)- 80-140dB 10hz-15000hz NEW for 2013 Price - $229 Group Buy RTA Pro Meter-(RTA)- 90-130dB 10hz-20000hz NEW for 2013 Price - $339 Group Buy SMART Monitor- Protect and measure AC and DC voltage and current DC- 0-200A protection and measuring. 0-30V protection and measuring. AC- 0-100A protection and measuring. 10-300V protection and measuring. Uses TRUE RMS measuring algorithm. Onboard Flashable Rom to allow measuring in realtime the following- Clipping AC Wattage output Impedance "Rise" User can easily flash back to use for protection of circuits and drivers in vehicle. Full Group Buy Price- $329 Group Buy Price with only 1 DC or 1 AC sensor- $284 User can purchase additional sensor anytime in the future if need be for $55. Combo Group Buy Pricing- Purchase any SPL Meter (usb, usb pro, lcd, wireless) and the RTA Pro and receive $50 discount. Purchase any SPL Meter (usb, usb pro, lcd, wireless) and the USB Noise Meter and receive $30 discount. Purchase any meter and the SMART Monitor and receive a $40 discount Purchase 2 Wireless Meters and receive a $40 discount NOTE: Wireless Meters are on a delay. We are estimating ETA to be 5-6 weeks from now before we get them in.
  14. -1 points
    Kingstroker

    Details Of Amp Mods.

    I'm curious of what in detail is done, why and what it yields. I just sent my 2202IQ (second, first is a 4753IQ) in and would like to know more details of what's done and why it is better. Pics would be great. Just a thought
  15. -1 points
    hjbennett

    Modded 952Iq

    2011 hyundai sonata. 1 XFL12 in ported box. VFL 4480.1 pushing sub at 1 ohm. Ordered new components CDT HD-61. I have a modded 952iq I'd like to use on the comps. Wll this be enough power for these speakers. Im not sure what the output on a modded 952 is. I have no way to clamp and test an amp so any ballpark numbers?
  16. -1 points
    Every good forum should have this. So I thought I would start with a classic.
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