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pro-rabbit

Ask Me Your Questions!

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pro-rabbit    30

As part of our plan to help the CA-F grow and have more foot traffic I would like to open a QA session for everyone.

Feel free to ask about anything audio related. We specialize is enclosures and installations(using all materials), but have a vast knowledge in every field of mobile electronics (we do help several companies with R&D).

Our staff is increasing every month and with it so is our knowledge base. So please let us help you with answer questions or offering tips/tricks to get you on the right track with your own projects.

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pro-rabbit    30

To be honest that will depend more on the setup and application. We have done IIB setups under the deck behind the rear seat with very good results. However, the best results we get are typically rear deck setups.

Could you elaborate a bit more on the setup your are thinking of using and the vehicle? Also what are you goals with this setup?

Edited by pro-rabbit

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I was thinking of a large divider in the trunk of my accord filled with kicker comps; the problem with the rear deck is that its not near big enough to accomadate the subs, plus it is already factory made for 6x9s. The goal here is to make more efficient use of my trunk space, since the boxes i'm using currently are under the ideal size for the subs in them.

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pro-rabbit    30

Normally when we design a IB setup I don't like to use that method. Always seems to never have the wanted response we are after. The better solution is to drop the front area of that design and stay with a true IB setup firing into the rear of the seat. It may seem like it is counter productive, but it will normally net a far better result.

I'm not saying that your rear deck venting is not a good option, just that I have had limited success with them over all.

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hjbennett    3

OK while awaiting the gathering of my wife's remaining equipment, I'll post some questions about mine.

2011 Hyundai Sonata. Has cut-out for 8" sub in rear deck that is filled with a plastic disc. Did not come with sub or wired for the sub. Current setup: Kicker L3 12 in custom enclosure ported at 35. Kicker ZX300.1. Gain at 1/4 and bass still overpowering. Can turn up mids and treble and is harshly bright. Stock head unit and stock speakers. Have bass set at -10 on head unit now.

How can I adjust this system to sound good? I loved the sound of the stock system, but wanted a little more bass. Now I have too much bass.

Should I:

1. remove enclosure, and place 8" free air sub into rear deck? (I've never seen or heard one so have no points of reference here)

2. Have sealed enclosure built with higher frequency?

3. Install remote gain control and use it as sub volume? Yeah, yeah but I'm desperate.

4. Leave it alone because the teenage son loves to drive it.

I think 1 would be the most obvious since car was built to have a sub put into rear deck.

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pro-rabbit    30

If you have several drivers in this car the easiest would be add some a "gain control" for the amplifier weather it be from Kicker or from an outside source(processor or EQ).

In the end the issue you have is that the the "harshness" you are talking about is that by taking away all bass and most of the mid bass from the speakers you are left with less of a desirable sound at higher volumes.

My first suggestion would be to upgrade the stock stereo actually. Most after market units will have a built in sub level control that will allow you to adjust the RCA voltage to alter the sub level. This is by far the best way to control the sub stage with out going into processing. This option will also give you a better overall response from the mids/highs and more ability to adjust and fine tune to the crossover points.

The next step would be to upgrade the speakers and do some dampening on the doors to help the mid bass response.

Having a teen driving the car, I would steer away from that gain control in all honesty. That is like a gas pedal for a younger person and they will just keep turning it lol.

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hjbennett    3

anything else besides changing the headunit? XM radio, bluetooth, usb port, ipod port, I actually like the stock stereo. Was hoping for something quick and easy. I'll ahve to wait until I finish wifes car before I can spend that much time/money on my car.

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pro-rabbit    30

For a "quick fix" the gain knob would be the cheapest/fastest solution.

The other options would be something like this...

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/fp/scat/310264/SFV/30046/set_num/2

This will allow for more control over what younger drivers can "crank" it up to. This is basically like a sub level control on a head unit, it will allow you to adjust the RCA voltage and still use the basic settings on the amp to ensure it can only go up to a set setting to ensure there is no damage to the product.

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pro-rabbit    30

For power or just overall favorite? I have a pretty wide list I can think of right now but they are favorites for random reasons.

Like take oldschool(late 90s early 2k era) planet audio amps for example. For the price there was simply no better at that time.

If you are talking just pure power then I would have to give a tip of the hat to US Amps and old Cadence. I could even toss several Mmats amps in there as well.

But if you just want my favorite of favorites, it would be the red/purple XTR 100/200 amps. Basically the same as the NT 100/200, but different color and ohm setup. They had plenty of power and amazing clarity. I favored the XTR's over the NT's simply because they were a bit harder to get your hands on and I loved the attention they brought at shows.

However, another just a personal favorite for no reason would be the chrome RF 500.2 punch power. Just loved those for some reason and just never got over them. I have also yet to find and purchase one again.

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Kingstroker    7

I'm in the process of building a console enclosure. Due to space limitations I'm going to use a couple of 4 ohm older 8" Blues in an isobaric configuration. Would a cone to cone or cone to magnet sound best? I hear there are cooling issues with the cone to magnet front speaker and something about the push/pull have some sort of cancelation benefits. I'll be powering these with a modded LP22IQ.

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