SQ Audio

SQ Audio's 2011 Toyota Yaris Blues/ LP Build Log

224 posts in this topic

Here is where i will post all info from my build. Attached are the pics of the build that i currently have. Its a Kenwood Excellon head unit with a Alpine 701 with rux. a zapco i force 4 ch on the sub and the front woofers and a lp 952 on the tweets. Front stage is zapco i force 6.5" and the sub is a DLS reference sweden built 10". Everything is run fully active. Does anyone have ideas of a sub enclosure for me? I will be using the blues 10 Sub off course with the blues 6.5 active set in the door and the tweeter in the same position as they are shown in the pic. i measured up the passenger side footwell and realised that the sub cant fit there so i will put it in the trunk. I have 30" across and 14" in height max. I can play with the depth of the box. I will be using all Stinger Level 3 Wiring ( Signal and Power) with optima batteries. What are your thoughts.

Edited by SQ Audio
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Looking good, except your steering wheel is on the wrong side. ;)

But seriously, I would suggest some sound deadening/dampening. SoundDeadenershowdown.com is still one of the very best products on the market, and they only sell you what you need. It transformed my Mazda, making it as quite is my old Mercedes. It makes a big difference not only with reducing the load the stereo has to do to overcome outside noises, it also makes a big thermal improvement with the inside of the car.

:)

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I have used Raammat in my past 3 vehicles and, IMO, it is the very best bang for your buck as far as sound deadening is concerned.

raamaudio.com

Edited by smoothfidelity
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I currently have one layer of Stinger Expert Roadkill Deadening, I will probably add another layer as i am getting sponsorship from the local Stinger Distributor.

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I currently have one layer of Stinger Expert Roadkill Deadening, I will probably add another layer as i am getting sponsorship from the local Stinger Distributor.

Layering deadener tiles has little positive effect. At that point, you need to brace the panels. Adding CCF and MLV, it blocks the sound transfer.

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I would need help with the box design. Anyone knows of any good box design programs?

Bromo on here would be a great help. :)

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I think i will just use one layer then. I am going to gut out the car and deaden all the way through to help with road noise and misc. vibrations. The build is starting this weekend.

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Have fun with that, I know I did. :rolleyes: Be ready for some sore fingers and forearms. I've had the entire interior of my truck out 5 or 6 times over the past 7 years (some pieces many more times than others). :trippy: It seems to pick up new noises every year older it gets, which requires more work to find, quieten and reassemble. Remember, pictures, pictures and more pictures.

ccf - closed cell foam

mlv - mass loaded vinyl

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will do. I have the roller from stinger which makes the roadkill installation alot easier.

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I would need help with the box design. Anyone knows of any good box design programs?

Bromo on here would be a great help. :)

and Thunder39208 ...

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Absolutely nothing against Bromo at all, but Thunder39208 AKA Jimmy has about 22 years experience with the original Blues and the new Blues too. Jimmy knows what works for these speakers and your normal box building programs will call for some wacky crap. Bass box pro says our 6.5 should be in a .15cf enclosure and we all know that does not work!

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Thanks i sent him a pm. I had the Machinist at work make one of my speaker rings today> i will have the other one made tomorrow. Its made of 3/4 inch Carbon steel!!! will post pics soon.

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OK i had to delete the pics from the original setup to get to upload these. Don't know why the limit is 500kb. Here are some pictures of the Machined Carbon Steel Speaker rings that will be used to mount the Blues 6.5" on my doors. The holes will be marked and drilled and tapped soon as i get the speakers on hand. They are 3/4" thick and they have a taper across the front face down to 5/8". The theory behind the taper is to have the speaker mounting angle a bit more on axis ( angled up slightly) and at the same time having the back wave from the speaker not hitting the inner side of the outer sheet metal for the door, at a close to 0 degree angle. This would discourage wave interference at the rear of the speaker. The reason for choosing carbon steel is to have that considerable amount of mass added to the structure that the speaker will be mounted to. This improves the accuracy of the sound of the speaker installed by ensuring that less energy from the cone is wasted through vibration. The ring also will stiffen the frame of the door.

post-5840-0-81425200-1336437702_thumb.jpg

post-5840-0-31481400-1336437726_thumb.jpg

post-5840-0-95397900-1336437734_thumb.jpg

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Wow, that's very nice. Dont forget it will help damp the door also with all that weight, lol. So a 0.125" taper on a approx. 7" ring is more than enought? I was thinking of going approx. .25" on mine.

Also are both taper the same? Because I was thinking I might do mines different, but need help.

Edited by Rick
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OK i had to delete the pics from the original setup to get to upload these. Don't know why the limit is 500kb. Here are some pictures of the Machined Carbon Steel Speaker rings that will be used to mount the Blues 6.5" on my doors. The holes will be marked and drilled and tapped soon as i get the speakers on hand. They are 3/4" thick and they have a taper across the front face down to 5/8". The theory behind the taper is to have the speaker mounting angle a bit more on axis ( angled up slightly) and at the same time having the back wave from the speaker not hitting the inner side of the outer sheet metal for the door, at a close to 0 degree angle. This would discourage wave interference at the rear of the speaker. The reason for choosing carbon steel is to have that considerable amount of mass added to the structure that the speaker will be mounted to. This improves the accuracy of the sound of the speaker installed by ensuring that less energy from the cone is wasted through vibration. The ring also will stiffen the frame of the door.

You should be able to start you own gallery ... alot easier than doing attachments ...

once you've uploaded the pics into your gallery, then copy and paste them into your threads ...

plus the images will look larger and easier to see ...

Awesome looking trim rings Sir ...

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Thanks guys. The reason i just used .125" taper is because i dont want the speakers too much on axis as i found that it kinda of takes away from stage width a bit when they are too much on axis. Also i need the mounting depth from it to ensure clearance behind the speaker. I will look into doing the gallerey. Thanks. will keep you guys posted.

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Here are the pics of the door skin treatment. I used Duplicolor Undercoat and sound Deadener. The logic behind it is that it is designed to add mass to the door skin to change its resonant frequency to a lower one where i hopefully would not be operating at. The finish is a rough finish that doesn't promote linear reflection, therefore it may help disperse sound that is reflected back into the door off the inner door skin. The nature of the material itself is designed to also absorb sound therefore this should also help with unwanted sound inside the door skin. The total mass added per door skin is approximately 1 lb.

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Loads of photo updates. :) Keep up the good work.

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